Paris flea market - Marché Vernaison
Paris is the world’s fashion capital for a reason, and there is no shortage of places to go shopping. There is something for everyone, from the grand magasins to small curated boutiques to vintage designer clothes, to concept shops. This series will be about shopping in Paris from my perspective as a fashion expert, stylist, writer, and, of course, Paris tour curator!
Shopping at Tombé du Camion in the marche Vernaison, Saint Ouen.
Let’s begin with what is always the activity on day three of my group tour and the most popular day tour I do; the Marché aux Puces de Saint Ouen! Located in the suburb of Saint Ouen to the north of Paris, this flea market is not just one or two buildings or a street full of tables. This is a tiny village with over 3000 vendors over 7 hectares, and it took me quite a few visits before I could make sense of it all. Let’s look at the most popular of the 15 markets here and the one you will most likely want to visit!
A postcard featuring the Marché in it’s early days.
First, a little history of the market, which is the originator of the idea and vocabulary of a flea market. In the mid-1800s, Paris was going through massive physical changes with the renovation of the city. Napoleon III was eager to remove much of the dilapidated areas of medieval Paris to mitigate disease and make the city easier to fortify against any uprisings by the populace. The rag and bone men who sold whatever goods they could scrounge together were no longer allowed to ply their wares in the city, so they made a place for themselves on the outskirts in what is now the town of Saint Ouen.
Boxes of beads at Lili et Daniel in the marché Vernaison
The first marché we visit is always the marché Vernaison, the original spot where the rag and bone men set up shop. This is the most picturesque part of the market, with outdoor stalls along winding alleyways. Right when you enter off the market's main street, rue de Rosiers, you’ll find Lili et Daniel. You’ll notice the wooden trays of vintage and antique beads alongside jewelry fittings, trimmings, buttons and other raw materials. This shop began in the 60s with a husband and wife who travelled around Europe collecting dead stock from manufacturers and dealers, and they still have one of the best collections on the market. If you love to create jewelry or embroideries, this is your shop.
Selection of costume jewelry from Grenier de Lucie at the Marché Vernaison in Paris.
The next place on my list, and just down from Lili et Daniel in allée 1, is Au Grenier de Lucie, one of the best costume jewellery shops I have ever visited. Heidi and her husband Jason moved from London to Paris to set up their shop in 2009. With designer jewelry from Chanel, Lanvin, Lacroix, YSL etc., they have something for everyone who loves quality costume jewelry. This is the type of place you could spend an hour just looking at all the remarkable pieces, but if you are looking for something special that you will never see anywhere else, they will never disappoint. (Tell Heidi I sent you!)
Tombé du Camion in the Marché Vernaison at the Paris flea market.
My third stop is at Tombé du Camion, meaning “fell off a truck.” While the items here are not stolen, they are unique and varied. Their main shop is laid out with wooden trays along a tiny aisle and can get crowded quickly, mainly because there is so much to look at. I could go on; you are constantly stopping to dig through a box of doll parts, vintage pins, old postcards, toys, and tin boxes. The selection here is fun and unique, making it a great place to grab souvenirs for your friends and family. The prices won’t break the bank either! You will also notice some of their other shops; next door is usually the vintage lighting stall; for a while across from them, they had a vintage clothing stall (which I think is now gone), and they even have a whole booth selling typesetting letters and decor items like doorknobs and hooks. They move things around often, but the leading shop is always along allée 1. A fun stop for tourists and Parisians alike¡